Trollskogen

Trollskogen, the "Troll Forest", lies at the very northern tip of Öland and forms part of the Böda Ekopark. The name fits: centuries of wind and salt air have twisted the pines into gnarled, contorted shapes, with ivy climbing over many of them in places. The nature reserve is managed by the Kalmar County Administrative Board (Länsstyrelsen Kalmar län), which also runs the Naturum Trollskogen visitor centre here.

Gnarled pines and ancient oaks

The trees that give the forest its name are mainly pines (Swedish tall), bent and flattened by generations of constant wind. Many are 100 to 200 years old, and pines over 150 years old often carry the tallticka fungus. Among the wind-twisted trunks stand mighty, ivy-covered oaks, the oldest on Öland are thought to be 800 to 900 years old. This mix of crooked pine forest, ancient broadleaf trees and dense ivy gives the woodland its distinctive, almost bewitched atmosphere, and its name.

The wreck of the Swiks

On the east beach lies the reserve's best-known landmark: the wreck of the three-masted schooner Swiks. Built in 1902 in Ainaži (then Upesgrīva), Latvia, she measured 34.4 m in length, 8.65 m in beam and 227 gross register tons. On 21 December 1926 she ran aground here in a snowstorm, all seven crew members survived. In 1954 the wreck broke into two parts; its timber ribs still rise out of the sand today and are among the most photographed sights at the northern tip.

Four circular trails through the reserve

Four marked circular trails start from the Naturum, running largely on boardwalks and easy going with children:

• Knysselnackestigen - 1 km, the shortest trail
• Kolkyrkestigen - 1.3 km
• Murgrönestigen - 2.7 km
• Trollskogsstigen - 4.5 km, the long loop through the whole forest

If you're short on time, even the short loops give you the wind-shaped pines and a view of the coast; for forest, beach and wreck at a relaxed pace, take the longer loop. For more on the island's walking trails, see the hiking guide.

Wildlife and best time to visit

In summer there are daily guided walks through the forest, and in autumn Trollskogen becomes interesting for nature watchers: birds migrate over the northern tip (including common crossbill), and insect life is active too. For photographing the gnarled pines, side-lit morning or evening light works best. Birdwatchers often combine a visit with the tips in the birdwatching guide.

Visiting and practical information

• Address: Naturum Trollskogen, Trollskogsvägen 20, 387 75 Byxelkrok (tel. +46 10-223 85 70). The nearest town to the south is Byxelkrok.
• Admission: free, both to the nature reserve and to the Naturum. Individual guided walks and events may carry a charge.
• Naturum: open seasonally, with a focus on summer. Current opening hours at naturumtrollskogen.se; the forest itself is accessible year-round.
• Parking: free at the Naturum for cars, coaches and motorhomes, plus reserved accessible parking bays and two EV charging points. The motorhome area is for daytime use only, overnight stays aren't allowed. Toilets at the car park and in the Naturum, some accessible.
• Duration: 1 to 2 hours is enough for a loop through the forest and out to the wreck.
• Combine with: Right at the northern tip stands the lighthouse Långe Erik, both make a natural pairing for a day trip. A few kilometres south, Böda Sand is Öland's longest sandy beach, while on the west coast the Byrums Raukar sea stacks rise from the shore. For more nature destinations, see the nature guide.